ICE CLIMBING

World famous for dozens of snow-capped mountains, the cordillera Blanca and the cordillera Huayhuash offers ice year round for those willing to try. A big advantage is easy access to the base camps with some previous acclimatization. The routes have varying levels of difficulty to challenge all types of climbers. Among the most well-known peaks are Huascarán south (6768 m), Alpamayo, which has the famous Ferrari route, and Chacraraju, one of the most difficult. The Ishinca valley provides several options for acclimatization climbing on Urus, Ishinca and Tocllaraju (6034m) peaks. In the Llanganuco valley, Pisco is popular for acclimatization as well.

Andean technique The glaciers of these two Cordilleras are comparable to those of the Alps. The absence of winter snow on the moraines sometimes makes access long and difficult. Snow and ice are the main components of Andean topography (snow at the Equator clinging to extremely steep slopes - 70° or more). The coldest slopes are the south facing ones: they are in the shade for practically the whole day. The absence of firm snow on these slopes can present great difficulties and even hinder ascent of a route. A characteristic is the formation of ice couloirs edged by ridges. The north facing slopes receive the most sun, rocks may protrude and mixed difficulties may be encountered. Rock falls are common on these slopes from August onwards.